One of the reasons I love the Jumeirah Mosque is because of its location. It’s in an older neighborhood and I like the rustic charm of the area.
I’ll trade the sterile perfection of most streets for some of those beautiful doors any day!
The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Understanding organizes tours of the Jumeirah Mosque so a friend and I visited one weekend. (Hi Yuri!) This activity is usually something tourists or recently landed expats do, but it took four years of living in Dubai before I finally managed to visit. I had driven by or photographed the mosque many times so I couldn’t wait to see inside because it’s the only mosque in Dubai open to the public. As with other activities organized by the SMCCU, it was well-organized, informative and an enjoyable experience.
Before entering the mosque, you can enjoy a bit of coffee and borrow a pashmina if you need one.
Like my earlier visit to the SMCCU for the Emirati breakfast, however, I wish the presenter had been Emirati, or at least from the Gulf. I’d appreciate hearing more from local voices, but the British woman (who converted to Islam some years back) was a very informative and polished presenter.
Construction on the mosque began in 1976 and it was completed in 1979. Dubaians affectionately consider the mosque a historic landmark and it’s featured on the 500 dirham note.
The presenter explained a bit about Islam, including a description of the five pillars of faith and the different styles of dress.
Most of the points she highlighted were things I knew having lived in Dubai for a while, although I did learn a little something about the men’s ghutra (the headscarf worn by men – it has several different names like keffiyeh or shemagh). She explained how generally speaking the look is more formal when it’s worn straight and draped around the shoulders, and more casual when it’s tucked in and folded around in a turban-like manner. She compared the “turban” type look to a pair of jeans. This made sense in hindsight because often younger guys wear them in this way. The different colors don’t hold much significance anymore, but some fabrics are heavier than others.
I know the way Muslim women dress gets a lot of attention, but I’ve always been more fascinated by the men’s clothes. We women are accused of applying make-up in the car, but I saw men arranging their ghutra countless times while driving – they are just as guilty as we are of primping! I like comparing the variations.
Want to learn how to tie one yourself? Check out this you tube video. 🙂 I like the part when he talks about how the style at one point was to have many layers showing, but now fewer are acceptable. This is something I would have never noticed as a westerner.
As far as women go, the following pictures/captions (via the BBC) show different variations of how head coverings are worn. As it states, the shayla is the most common for Gulf women to wear. It looks deceptively easily to casually throw on a pashmina to make it look like that, but I learned on multiple occasions it is not!
In the pictures below the presenter describes and displays the different types of face coverings you may see in the Gulf.
She explained how people line up shoulder to shoulder, poor next to rich, emphasizing equality. I found this interesting because many Emiratis love to flash their bling. They may be in a black abaya or white kandora, but more often than not you’ll also find a flashy watch, designer stilettos or fancy handbag to go along with it. The more expensive and the more ostentatious – the better. I wondered how this extravagant lifestyle, not to mention the extreme social stratification found in Dubai, is reconciled with this theme of equality in Islam.
In terms of content, she said all imams at all mosques in the UAE are told what to cover for the week so that their message is consistent across the country. And of course she emphasized that Islam does not condone or promote violence.
Overall it was really interesting and I’m grateful that I was able to attend the tour before leaving. Check out the SMCCU website for details on this and other worthwhile activities. A few pics of the mosque follow.
For pics of mosques in my neighborhood, visit the old post, Pillar of Faith.
To read about the mosque down the street from my house in Dubai, visit the old post, The Soundtrack of our Life in the Middle East.
**I am certainly no expert on this stuff, so if anyone needs to correct something I wrote – please leave a note in the comments.
Your photos are stunning as usual. I especially like the doors 🙂 I love reading your blog and reminiscing about my time spent in Dubai. Thanks for the memories!
Thanks so much Anne – always appreciate your comments! 🙂 I love the doors too. Hope all is well in Thailand! Haven’t read your new book yet but it’s on my list!
Fabulous photos.
Thanks so much!
What a ton of info!!! Totally informative! I love the men’s outfits too. Ha, ha, ha….they are fixing their ghutra while driving?!? Funny. Anyway…..as Anne mentioned…great photos as always. Makes me a little sad…I was there around this time last year…that was a great trip.
Aww – thanks. 🙂 I know – isn’t that funny about the men? Their look might look effortless but actually they are just as vain as women. 😉 And I also could not get over how impeccably white their dishdashas were – without exception. When I wear a white shirt I feel like I’m constantly a mess!
Beautiful beautiful pictures!!! What’s up with the green stretch limo?! I love the clash of cultures.
Aww thanks! 🙂 I know – the lime green limo made me smile. 🙂
This informative post and your excellent photos bring back lots of memories Lynda. We lived in Khartoum for a couple of years, and have traveled in lots of Muslim countries, so we’ve seen our share of mosques. I’ve always loved the architecture of mosques because it’s so different from Christian architecture. And the prohibition of reproducing the human form, creates all sorts of opportunities for wonderful embellishments. ~James
Thanks so much James. I agree – I love Islamic architecture for the same reason. My first experience with it was in Southern Spain about 15 years ago. I’ve been a fan of the beautiful calligraphy and stunning patterns ever since.
It’s such a beautiful mosque and I’ve walked by so many times, but I’ve never been inside. Interesting read about the head scarf:)
I was surprised by how bright it was inside – wasn’t expecting yellow and blue!
I’m so in love with these pictures! I’m considering moving from NYC to Prague to be an expat and this post was inspiring since you wrote a lot about the culture. I can’t wait to start reading other posts!
Thanks so much Jelani! How amazing it would be to live in such a picturesque city like Prague. Although I think you’re lucky for living in NY in the first place! 🙂
The Jumeirah Mosque looks gorgeous – and I agree it looks like it is situated in a very nice neighbourhood. A lovely series of photographs.
Thanks so much Otto. 😊
Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this post is so informative 🙂 thanks! love all the pictures..I blog at http://www.ishitasood.blogspot.in
Thanks so much for stopping by and commenting! Will check out your blog now. 🙂
Very cool photos. I highly suspect that at least one passenger in that lime green limo was wearing a matching mankini under his ghutra…
a lime green mankini?! that is a combination I’ve never ever thought of… ha ha. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!